Saturday, August 23, 2008

Getting settled back in

Well, obviously we are back home... the journey back was long and mostly uneventful, although we did have a delay in Paris. The very next day, we had to get back to work, which went fine, although we were tired.

Now we've been able to catch up a little bit on sleep and are looking forward to the weekend! Also, I finally had a chance to go thru the photos and select some good ones to put up on the web. They can be found here. I haven't had time to put individual descriptions on them yet, though. Just ask if you have any questions about them...

Monday, August 18, 2008

Heading Home

Hey everybody,

I apologize for not being more punctual with my blog posts. It's been a busy end to the trip. We are back in Cairo and heading out tomorrow for home. We should be back by late tomorrow afternoon EST.

I plan to write more after we get back safely home!

Monday, August 11, 2008

The Island at the End of the Road

We have found a place with better net access and so I figured that I should write a little more about our journey thus far.

We are still in Siwa Oasis and will be here for a couple more days. We are planning on going out into the desert -- the dunes of the Great Sand Sea -- tomorrow night and camping. On Friday we head back towards Alexandria for the weekend, then Cairo at the beginning of next week and then homewards.

This places is truly unlike anywhere else I have been before. I would love to return here. This journey has convinced me of two things: 1) I think I'm part desert rat and mountain goat, 2) I think that I take after my ancestor Sir Francis Drake. I love wandering and think that I have a natural talent for it. I am seriously thinking about how to do a round-the-world voyage!

Yesterday we explored the area surrounding Siwa. There is a small mountain north of town named Jebel Mawta -- the Mountain of the Dead. When the Romans had an outpost here, they buried their dead in niches cut into the rock. The topography of the land here makes catacombs unfeasible. During the battles fought between the Libyans and the Egyptians for control of the oasis, the Siwans would also hide in these niches.

We also went to see two ruined temples nearby: Alexander's temple and the Temple of the Oracle. Frankly these were kind of disappointing, although the story connected with them is interesting. Alexander the Great came here when he was in Egypt and sought the advice of the oracle of Zeus Ammon. Exactly what the oracle said is lost to time, but Alexander took it as comfirmation that he was a demigod and meant to establish an empire.

After the temples, we took a break at the pool known as Cleopatra's Spring (although there is no evidence she ever visited it). This is one of the most popular places that locals come to cool off. A lot of them wanted me to take pictures of them diving and so on. I didn't jump in, because I'm not a good diver, but Dave did and had a great time.

After that, we took the caretta back to town via a scenic route that goes by another mountain -- Jebel Dakhrour. Then we needed a siesta! I wasn't actually very sleepy, but I rested and finished the basketwork socks and cast on for the green King Charles socks that I had mentioned before.

In the evening, we hung out in the market square for a bit, had coffee and smoked the sheesha. Then we ate in a restaurant Albabenshal atop the ruined fortress Shali that overlooks the town. I had camel stew, which was very tasty!

In the next few days, I will try to fill in the gaps about our time in Alexandria, as well as updating on our current activity.

Siwa Oasis

Hi there. We've arrived safely in Siwa after a ten-hour bus ride. The place is beautiful and I plan to say more about it after we get back to Alex and Cairo. The only net access here is dial-up...

Thursday, August 7, 2008

...To Alexandria

We have safely arrived in Alexandria after a very smooth and relaxing train ride thru the Nile Delta. The Delta is very flat and green and dotted with small villages. When we were in-between inhabited areas, the landscape could just as well have been located in Iowa or Indiana! The area we went thru was mostly dedicated to growing corn.

Arriving in Alex was a bit interesting, because we didn't know that there are two train stations. We got off at the first one instead of going to the end of the line. This meant that we got a little lost on the way to our hotel. Fortunately, we flagged down a motorist to ask directions and he insisted on taking us to the right place. He didn't even want gas money... We're planning on taking him out for dinner to say thanks!

The hotel here is twice as expensive as the one in Cairo but still only $30/night. We get more than twice the value though, because this one has AC, bathroom en suite, satellite TV and a fridge!

This evening we ate at a kebab place kitty-corner to the hotel. The place has great food for really cheap prices... the combined bill for our meals came to just over $8! I discovered a new thing: Fayrouz pineapple soda, which I found quite refreshing. I think I'll miss that when we return...

After the meal, we decided to walk some of it off along the Corniche along the sea. We walked over to and around Midan Sa'ad Zaagloul, which is the main hub of activity around this part of town. There were lots of folks walking and sitting along the wall overlooking the water. The beach right here is rather rocky, so tomorrow we intend to check out the sandy beaches further east.

Onward...

Greetings!

We are still in Cairo but are about to head over to Ramses Station after getting a little something to eat. We are looking forward to checking out Alexandria. Pretty much every Egyptian that we've talked with says it's a beautiful, great place.

Yesterday afternoon didn't totally go as planned. The Arabesque was closed, and so we ducked into the courtyard cafe at the Nile Hilton, which was good, although expensive by local standards. Afterward, we went to Ramses Station to buy our train tickets, which was a tricky process. First, you have to figure out the proper window to go to, and then you have to communicate with an agent who basically doesn't give a damn. Our first choice of train was sold out, so we got one a little bit later in the afternoon. It's still going to be express and aircon, which I am looking forward to!

Wednesday, August 6, 2008

Hot Time in Cairo...

After two long but uneventful flights, we landed in Cairo yesterday evening. The first thing that struck me is that the airport has been modernized a lot from when we were here 6 years ago. The airport road seems to have been upgraded as well. The El Hussein Hotel, on the other hand, has not. The only rooms available had the bathroom down the hall. But it's alright for a couple of nights...

We checked in and rested for an hour or so, then hit the square. Midan Hussein is where the Mosque of Hussein is located. Hussein was one of the Prophet Muhammad's grandsons who was martyred. He's very important to the Shi'a, but ordinary Egyptians who are Sunni regard him highly too. Unbeknownst to us, there was a festival in his honor in the square last night, so the mosque was all lit up and there was music and dancing in the square. We soaked it all up, and I wound up dancing with some of the dervishes who were there. I got all hot and sweaty (and thus the title).

We also got a little something to eat at the Egyptian Pancake House. The "pancakes" are known as fiteer in Arabic and are really more like crepes stuffed with whatever sweet or savory fillings you'd like. I had mine with meat, cheese and veggies... yum!
After all that we slept very well...

Today so far we changed money and walked along El Mouski, which is a pedestrian alleyway with all sorts of shopping along it. We bought some fresh baked bread and bottled water from street vendors for breakfast. After finishing up here, we intend to go to the Arabesque Restaurant for lunch (nearby) and then go to Ramses Station to buy our tickets for the train to Alexandria.

I'd say the trip is off to a good start!

Monday, August 4, 2008

Ready Teddy Go!

Today is the big day that we've been waiting for for months now... we're about to take off on our trip to Egypt! I intend to keep posting updates as we go, and of course take lots of pictures too!