Monday, August 11, 2008

The Island at the End of the Road

We have found a place with better net access and so I figured that I should write a little more about our journey thus far.

We are still in Siwa Oasis and will be here for a couple more days. We are planning on going out into the desert -- the dunes of the Great Sand Sea -- tomorrow night and camping. On Friday we head back towards Alexandria for the weekend, then Cairo at the beginning of next week and then homewards.

This places is truly unlike anywhere else I have been before. I would love to return here. This journey has convinced me of two things: 1) I think I'm part desert rat and mountain goat, 2) I think that I take after my ancestor Sir Francis Drake. I love wandering and think that I have a natural talent for it. I am seriously thinking about how to do a round-the-world voyage!

Yesterday we explored the area surrounding Siwa. There is a small mountain north of town named Jebel Mawta -- the Mountain of the Dead. When the Romans had an outpost here, they buried their dead in niches cut into the rock. The topography of the land here makes catacombs unfeasible. During the battles fought between the Libyans and the Egyptians for control of the oasis, the Siwans would also hide in these niches.

We also went to see two ruined temples nearby: Alexander's temple and the Temple of the Oracle. Frankly these were kind of disappointing, although the story connected with them is interesting. Alexander the Great came here when he was in Egypt and sought the advice of the oracle of Zeus Ammon. Exactly what the oracle said is lost to time, but Alexander took it as comfirmation that he was a demigod and meant to establish an empire.

After the temples, we took a break at the pool known as Cleopatra's Spring (although there is no evidence she ever visited it). This is one of the most popular places that locals come to cool off. A lot of them wanted me to take pictures of them diving and so on. I didn't jump in, because I'm not a good diver, but Dave did and had a great time.

After that, we took the caretta back to town via a scenic route that goes by another mountain -- Jebel Dakhrour. Then we needed a siesta! I wasn't actually very sleepy, but I rested and finished the basketwork socks and cast on for the green King Charles socks that I had mentioned before.

In the evening, we hung out in the market square for a bit, had coffee and smoked the sheesha. Then we ate in a restaurant Albabenshal atop the ruined fortress Shali that overlooks the town. I had camel stew, which was very tasty!

In the next few days, I will try to fill in the gaps about our time in Alexandria, as well as updating on our current activity.

1 comment:

ColorJoy LynnH said...

Love your narrative... thanks for taking the time to write on the road. When we were in Africa in 2004/05, it was very hard to get online, especially since we did not bring a laptop.

Have a wonderful time. See you soon enough.

LynnH